In the Langhe, a region in the province of Cuneo, lies a place where time seems to stand still, where the beauty of the landscape merges with history and the flavor of a unique wine. This place is Verduno, a small and charming village perched on a hill, earning it the nickname "belvedere of the Langhe" (the balcony of the Langhe).
From here, your gaze is lost in a breathtaking panorama that embraces rolling hills, vineyards that change color with each season, and the peaks of the Alps rising on the horizon. But Verduno is more than just a scenic viewpoint; it's a place steeped in history, tradition, and a strong identity, tied inextricably to its wine.
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The Castle and the Story of a Wine Rescued from Oblivion
The beating heart of Verduno is its Castle, an imposing fortress that dominates the village. Built in the 17th century, the castle has witnessed centuries of history, nobles, wars, and rebirths within its walls. It's here that one of the most fascinating stories of this village begins.
In the mid-19th century, Marquis Filippo Cordero di Montezemolo, the castle's owner, noticed an unknown and rare white grape variety, almost forgotten, growing in his vineyards. Intrigued, he decided to study it and, with the help of the French oenologist Louis Oudart, successfully vinified it as a single varietal. This gave birth to Verduno Pelaverga, a light and fragrant red wine characterized by spicy and floral notes. Today, this exceptional wine is a symbol of the area and one of its most precious oenological gems.
The story of this wine, saved from oblivion and restored to its former glory, is a testament to the tenacity and passion of Verduno's producers, who still dedicate themselves with care and devotion to cultivating this indigenous grape variety.
A Village to Discover, Rich in Flavors and Panoramas
But Verduno isn't just about wine. Strolling through its cobblestone streets, you can feel an atmosphere of peace and tranquility. The stone houses, flowering balconies, and small piazzas tell the story of a village that has managed to maintain its authenticity.
Beyond the castle, there are other points of interest, such as the Parish Church of San Michele Arcangelo, with its Baroque facade and interior frescoes, or the "Il Ciabot" Ethnographic Museum, which houses tools and objects from the local farming tradition.
And then there's the food. The trattorias and osterias of Verduno offer the best of Piedmontese cuisine: tajarin, ravioli del plin, braised meats, and the famous bollito misto, all expertly paired with local wines, including, of course, Verduno Pelaverga.
To Experience Verduno at All Hours: Where to Eat, What to See, and Where to Taste
If you want to experience Verduno at any time of day, from the first light of dawn to late evening, you won't be short on options. For a complete food and wine experience, the Ristorante del Castello di Verduno offers refined cuisine that highlights local flavors, with a wine list that's a journey through both local and international labels. If you're looking for a more authentic and traditional atmosphere, the Trattoria del Pelaverga is the perfect place to savor typical Piedmontese dishes, prepared according to traditional recipes.
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For a total immersion in the world of wine, Verduno is a paradise for enthusiasts. You can visit and taste directly at historic and prestigious wineries. Cantina Burlotto, for example, is a benchmark for Verduno Pelaverga, as well as for its top-tier Barolo. Another excellent choice is the Cantina Castello di Verduno, which produces wines right within the castle's historic walls. For a more intimate, family-run experience, the Fratelli Alessandria winery offers the chance to discover wines of great character.
Beyond the pleasures of the table, Verduno offers other experiences. You can start your day with a refreshing walk along the paths winding through the vineyards, a perfect opportunity to admire the landscape as the light changes. In the afternoon, in addition to visiting the castle and the Church of San Michele, don't miss the "Cantina Comunale del Verduno Pelaverga", where you can taste and purchase various labels produced by the village's winemakers. At sunset, the "belvedere" viewpoint will give you an unforgettable spectacle, with the sun setting behind the Alps, painting the sky in warm hues. And for the evening, after a delicious dinner, the tranquil atmosphere of the village invites you to a stroll under the stars, breathing in the quiet magic of this place.
The Blessed Sebastiano Valfrè, "the Apostle of Turin"
Verduno’s history is not just tied to wine, but also to figures of great spiritual and human depth. It was here that Sebastiano Valfrè was born in 1629, a name that for many is synonymous with Turin, but whose roots are in this Langhe village. After studying in Bra and Turin, he joined the Congregation of the Oratory of Saint Philip Neri and dedicated his life to the poor, the sick, and the needy, earning the title "Apostle of Turin."
His reputation for holiness and his social commitment were so great that he became a confessor and advisor to the Savoy court, particularly to Duke Vittorio Amedeo II. He was a fundamental figure during the terrible Siege of Turin in 1706, offering spiritual and material comfort to soldiers and civilians. It is said that it was he, through divine inspiration, who suggested that the duke build the Basilica of Superga in honor of the Virgin Mary, in gratitude for the victory.
Today in Verduno, his birthplace, there is a sanctuary dedicated to him, built on the site believed to have been his home. The story of Blessed Valfrè reminds us how this small village gave birth to personalities capable of leaving a profound mark, blending its genuine, rural identity with a spirituality and historical legacy that extends far beyond the borders of the Langhe.
Balcone a Pollenzo
Reserve your lodging to discover the vibrant core of the Langhe. This cozy spot in Pollenzo is just moments from the renowned University of Gastronomic Sciences, situated midway between Alba and Bra.
Verduno: An Experience for All the Senses
Visiting Verduno means immersing yourself in a complete experience that satisfies your sight, your palate, and your spirit. It means walking through the rows of vines, breathing the clean Langhe air, and admiring a sunset that sets the horizon on fire. It means tasting history in a glass of wine and feeling the warmth of a community that has made its land a treasure to protect and value.
If you're looking for a place to escape the chaos of modern life and rediscover the beauty of simple things, Verduno awaits you with its hills, its castle, and its fascinating story.