Every year, the arrival of cold weather in Piedmont (Piemonte) not only brings the scents of hazelnuts and the steam of red wines, but also heralds a centuries-old event that makes every gourmet's heart beat faster: the International Fat Ox Fair of Carrù (Fiera Internazionale del Bue Grasso di Carrù).
It’s not just a simple festival, but a true celebration of livestock tradition, a ritual dating back to 1473 that stars a gentle giant: the Piemontese Breed Ox (Bue di Razza Piemontese).
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The Ritual and the History: Why Carrù is the Fat Ox Capital
The Fair is historically held on the second Thursday before Christmas and transforms Carrù, a small, charming town at the gateway to the Langhe region, into the center of the world for butchers, breeders, and lovers of fine meat.
The modern event, which started in 1910 with the goal of boosting local livestock farming, is now an impressive exhibition where the most majestic and well-fatted animals of the prized Piemontese Breed are awarded prizes. The oxen, magnificent and glossy, parade through the Foro Boario (Livestock Forum), serving as living monuments to a centuries-old agricultural tradition.
The culmination of the show is the assignment of the prestigious "Golden Ox" (Bue d'Oro) prize, which crowns the best specimen of the year—an honor that reflects on the quality of the meat that will eventually grace our tables.
His Majesty: Gran Bollito alla Carrusese
If there is one reason worth braving the cold December morning, it's the Gran Bollito alla Carrusese (Great Boiled Meat, Carrù style).
Already at dawn, as the Fair comes to life, restaurants and the Palafiera (Fair Pavilion) fill with the unmistakable aroma of simmering broth. Here, bollito isn't just a dish; it's an experience that follows precise rules. It traditionally consists of seven cuts of meat (including tongue, head, brisket, flank, and cotechino) served with the essential seven Piemontese sauces.
Don't miss the pairing with the Bagnetto Verde (a green sauce made from parsley and anchovies) and the Bagnetto Rosso (a tomato-based red sauce). The union of the succulent ox meat with these sweet-and-sour sauces is an ode to Piemontese cuisine, a rich and comforting explosion of flavour.
A close-up of a typical dish follows: the Gran Bollito alla Carrusese, with the seven visible cuts of meat, accompanied by small bowls of the seven Piemontese sauces, served on a rustic wooden table and paired with a good glass of local red wine.
Tales of Parades and Historical Anecdotes
The Fat Ox Fair is more than just a market and a feast; it's a stage for small stories and traditions passed down through generations. A famous anecdote from the early twentieth century relates to the goal of the fair: to counteract food scarcity and literally "put a brake on rising meat prices," making the initiative a true act of community service. It's said that the first editions were a resounding success, with thousands of cattle filling the square, transforming Carrù into a vibrant and noisy commercial capital. Another persistent custom is the ox parade through the town streets, a solemn, almost mystical moment where these giants, often adorned with embroidered gualdrappe (saddle cloths), seem aware of their majesty. Finally, the aura of the bollito's excellence means that for many butchers and restaurateurs, acquiring the Bue d'Oro at the subsequent world auction is not just a business transaction, but a genuine source of pride and an honour-bound mission that seals the quality of their offerings for the coming year.
Carrù: Land of History, Illustrious Figures, and Popular Resilience
Carrù is not just the capital of the Fat Ox but a town with a rich history worth sharing. Since the Middle Ages, as evidenced by the 1473 decree that launched the markets, the town was a vital commercial hub in Piedmont—a true "Gateway to the Langa."
The most illustrious and enduring connection is with Luigi Einaudi, one of the founding fathers of the Italian Republic and its second President (1948–1955). Although born in Mondovì, Einaudi was deeply tied to Carrù; his family owned the S. Giacomo estate nearby, and he used to spend long periods there.
The Fair During Wartime
The Fair has endured difficult periods, and its continuity is a symbol of popular resilience. During the World Wars, the event faced understandable difficulties. It is recounted that, particularly in the winter of 1944, the Fair was suspended only once. In the years immediately preceding and following, the Fair became a vital, albeit precarious, point of exchange. Anecdotes tell how the trade of the Fat Ox during those times was less about celebration and more about survival, guaranteeing an essential supply of meat and broth to feed the local population during an era of rationing and great hardship.
Today, visiting Carrù also means walking in the footsteps of figures who shaped Italian economics, politics, and gastronomic identity, all while honoring a tradition that has survived even conflict.
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Not Just Meat: What to See in Carrù
In addition to the livestock show and the triumph of the bollito, the Fair offers the perfect opportunity to discover Carrù, the "Gateway to the Langa":
- Walks in the Langa: Carrù is strategically located for exploring the hills, even for a short post-lunch stroll.
- The Fat Ox Statue: In Piazza Mercato, you'll find a sculpture dedicated to the ox, an artistic tribute to the town's symbol. Be sure to check out the famous benches, including a striking giant gold bench from which you can admire the panorama.
- The Museum of the Piemontese Breed: For those wanting to delve deeper into the history and livestock characteristics of the ox, the local museum is a recommended stop.
An Event to Mark on Your Calendar
The Fiera del Bue Grasso is an event that embodies the authenticity and excellence of Piedmont. It's an invitation to rediscover the slow rhythms of peasant tradition and celebrate the truest and deepest flavours of Italian cuisine.
If you're looking for a memorable food and wine experience to warm the soul as the holidays approach, Carrù is the right destination.
Balcone a Pollenzo
Reserve your lodging to discover the vibrant core of the Langhe. This cozy spot in Pollenzo is just moments from the renowned University of Gastronomic Sciences, situated midway between Alba and Bra.
Useful Information and Official Contacts
If the history, the livestock excellence, and—above all—the Gran Bollito have convinced you to visit Carrù, here's where you can find all the necessary information:
To find out the exact dates, the detailed program of the livestock show, the hours for the "Bollito No Stop", and for any updates, we recommend consulting the official website of the event:
Official Website: www.fieradelbuegrassodicarru.it
For more specific information or to directly contact the organizers (Pro Loco or Municipality of Carrù), please refer to the contact details found on the official website.