The Donkey Palio in Alba, the "Counter-Palio"

A One-of-a-Kind Event: Alba's "Counter-Palio"

In Alba, the capital of the Langhe region, the race isn't run with horses, but with donkeys! On the first Sunday of every October, this charming city comes alive for one of its most unique and entertaining events: the Palio degli Asini (Donkey Palio). While it was born from a genuine rivalry, today it's a jovial and festive occasion to celebrate local traditions.

The Origins of a Centuries-Old Rivalry

The story of the Donkey Palio in Alba is a mix of legend, bravado, and an ancient feud between two neighboring but rival cities: Alba and Asti. The roots of this playful competition trace back to 1275, when war between the two cities was a daily reality. Legend has it that after plundering the monastery of San Frontiniano just outside Alba's gates, the Astigiani decided to humiliate their enemies even further. To show their superiority, they ran a horse palio right along Alba's city walls, a provocative act of mockery.

But legend also holds that the people of Alba, with their sharp wit and wounded pride, refused to back down. To make a fool of their enemies and their "noble" race, they decided to organize their own palio. But instead of proud horses, they chose the most humble and stubborn of animals: the donkey. This "counter-palio" was a way of saying that their strength didn't come from symbols of power, but from their unique and irreverent identity.

The Donkey Palio as we know it today was actually born more recently, in 1932. Local artist Pinot Gallizio and other citizens, inspired by this ancient rivalry, decided to revive the event. The spark was yet another slight from the Astigiani, who that year denied Alba's jockeys the chance to participate in their horse palio. Alba's response was brilliant and unmistakable: to reinstate the Donkey Palio, turning an affront into a festival that still celebrates the tenacious and ironic spirit of the Langhe people. And just like that, a historical rivalry became a cherished tradition and, above all, a chance for everyone to laugh at themselves together.

The Tradition and Its "Absurd" Rules

The Palio of Alba is an event that doesn't take itself too seriously. The donkeys, stubborn and unpredictable creatures, are the true stars, and their reluctance to run turns the race into a series of unexpected moments and laughter. Unlike the Palio in Asti, there's no rigorous athletic training here. The animals are chosen and prepared by the various city districts using methods that defy all logic.

During the race, it's common to see donkeys stopping mid-course to graze or deciding to turn back, completely ignoring their jockeys. The entire event is filled with an atmosphere of irony and jest, where the residents of each borgo (district) challenge each other with good-natured taunts.

Pinot Gallizio, the Artist Who Founded the "Counter-Palio"

While the rivalry between Alba and Asti is the heart of the Palio, its modern soul has a name: Pinot Gallizio. He wasn't a jockey or a city-district member, but a prominent artist and intellectual who, in 1932, had the brilliant idea to turn an ancient insult into a genuine festival. Gallizio didn't just revive the 13th-century "counter-palio"; he reinvented it with a touch of clever irony. His vision was to mock Asti's arrogance not with weapons, but with humor. Replacing the noble horse with the stubborn donkey was more than just a slight; it was a statement of identity. Alba didn't need to copy anyone; its strength lay in its ability to laugh at itself. Thanks to Gallizio, the Donkey Palio is more than just a race—it's a testament to the Langhe people's character: tenacious, proud, and with an unbeatable sense of humor and self-irony.

A Palio for Laughter, Not for Risk

The Donkey Palio in Alba stands apart from other equestrian events due to its strong focus on safety. Unlike palios where extreme competition can lead to accidents, Alba's primary goal is celebration and fun, not winning at all costs. From its origins, the event was designed to be a jest, and as a result, measures have always been in place to prioritize the well-being of the animals and the safety of the participants.

There have never been any serious or fatal incidents at the Donkey Palio. The event's burlesque and playful nature keeps it far from the seriousness and extreme competition of other equestrian races. The organizers have always placed participant and animal safety first, implementing several precautions:

• A Safe Track: The racecourse is in a controlled area (currently Piazza Medford) and the track is covered with sawdust and protected by straw bales to cushion any falls.
• Donkey Welfare Regulations: The rules strictly forbid the use of any tools (whips, sticks, spurs, etc.) that could cause the animals suffering.
• Veterinary Checks: Donkeys undergo veterinary inspections before and during the event to ensure their well-being. Additionally, donkeys under four years old are not allowed to participate.
• Animal Freedom: The donkeys race without a bit, and if a jockey falls, the race can continue even if the animal crosses the finish line "unridden" (without its rider). This emphasizes that the goal isn't to force the animal at all costs, but to maintain the event's playful nature.

Following incidents at other palios, such as Asti's, the Alba Palio has been a subject of debate and has received requests from animal welfare associations. However, organizers have always maintained that due to its non-competitive nature and strict safety measures, the Donkey Palio doesn't pose the risks found in other equestrian events. The burlesque atmosphere and the unpredictability of the donkeys—who often stop or refuse to run—are the best guarantee against excessive competition and the dangers that come with it

The Borgo Rankings: The Podium and the Rivalries

The three historic borgos (districts) of Alba that have won the Palio degli Asini the most are:

• Borgo dei Brichet: In first place with an impressive 14 victories, the most recent being in 2023. The name Brichet comes from a local Piedmontese dialect term for "small hills" or "high ground," a synonym for their tenacity and competitive spirit. It is one of the most active and successful borgos, and their latest win sparked huge celebrations.
• Borgo di Patin e Tesòr: Holding second place in the historical rankings with 8 victories (the last in 2012). The borgo's name means "pans and treasures," a clear reference to the ancient artisan and commercial activities that once took place in that part of the city. The rivalry between Patin e Tesòr and the Brichet is one of the most deeply felt and intense.
• Borgo di Moretta: With 7 victories (the last in 2004), the Borgo di Moretta is in third place. Its name has a unique and mysterious origin, linked to the legend of a young maiden, La Moretta, who fell in love with a young knight against her family’s wishes. This borgo is well-known for its costume parades, which are often among the most evocative and meticulously crafted.

Each borgo has its own history, colors, and traditions, which are expressed with great passion during the Palio, making the competition not just a race but a celebration of Albese identity and folklore.

---

Stories and Anecdotes That Make History

• The "Unmounted" Jockey: One story tells of a jockey who was thrown from his donkey midway through the race. Instead of continuing, the animal calmly stopped to graze on the grass, completely ignoring its rider's shouts and encouragement. In the end, the exasperated jockey decided to cross the finish line on foot, with the donkey leisurely following behind him.
• The Costume Parades: Before the race, the nine historic borgos of Alba parade through the city streets in traditional costumes. Each parade tells a story of the borgo, with knights, ladies, and ancient crafts. It's a moment of great community involvement and a chance to admire the richness of local folklore.
• The Legend of the "Cursed Palio": It is said that one borgo, after winning for too many consecutive years, was "cursed" by its opponents. For years, their donkeys proved to be undisciplined and lazy, never managing to finish first. The curse supposedly ended only when, after years of losses, the borgo decided to change both their jockey and their animal, finally turning their luck around.

---

Where to Stay During the Palio

To fully experience the atmosphere of the Donkey Palio and the Truffle Fair, staying near Alba allows you to combine the city's festivities with the peacefulness of the hills. Our accommodations in Pollenzo, just a few minutes from Alba, are the ideal base for immersing yourself in the celebrations without giving up the serenity of the landscape.

We offer you the chance to enjoy an authentic experience in a setting that blends comfort with the elegance of our region. To check the availability of our accommodations and discover the amenities designed for you, feel free to visit our dedicated pages (Casa a Pollenzo and Balcone a Pollenzo), or contact us through this website. We look forward to welcoming you and making your stay a special memory.

Useful Information to Attend

The Donkey Palio in Alba takes place every year on the first Sunday of October, as part of the traditional International Alba White Truffle Fair. For more information on specific dates, the event schedule, and to purchase tickets, you can check the official Truffle Fair website.

Contacts and Official Website:

• Website: www.fieradeltartufo.org
• Email: info@fieradeltartufo.org

The Donkey Palio of Alba is a unique event where tradition blends with pure fun. If you ever find yourself in the area in early October, don't miss it. You'll witness a spectacle unlike any other!