Dear Readers,
Let's be honest: what's better than autumn in Piedmont? The warm colours, the crisp air, and, above all, the authentic flavours of the land! And what place embodies all this better than the National Chestnut Fair (Fiera Nazionale del Marrone) in Cuneo? Well, yes, I was there, and I returned with my bag full of delicacies and my heart full of stories to share with you.
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The Scent That Welcomes You and the History That Embraces You
The moment I arrived in Cuneo's historic centre, I understood immediately: this is not just a simple local festival. It is a true sensory immersion! The unmistakable scent of roasted chestnuts, mixed with the fragrance of vin brulé (mulled wine) and spices, envelops you from the very first step. Thousands of people, hundreds of exhibitors, and a vibrant energy in every corner.
And speaking of energy, do you know where this tradition comes from? The roots of the Fair go back as far as 1936, when the "Divo d'Autunno" (the Autumn Star), the chestnut, was already the undisputed protagonist. After an interruption due to the World Wars, the Fair successfully reclaimed its heritage, making a grand return in 1999 and earning the well-deserved title of "National" Fair in 2009. It is not just an eno-gastronomic showcase but also a benchmark for Italian chestnut growing, celebrating the Castagna IGP Cuneese, the area's first Protected Geographical Indication!
Anecdotes and Astounding Numbers!
While savouring a bag of roasted chestnuts—which, trust me, were heavenly—I wondered, "How many of these do they eat here in three days?" The answer left me speechless: it seems that between 250 and 300 quintals of chestnuts are consumed, which translates to approximately 165,000–200,000 bags of roasted chestnuts! An army of gourmands!
I also attended a wonderfully entertaining educational workshop. A local chestnut grower shared how the chestnut was once considered the "bread of the poor" due to its high nutritional value. Today, however, it is a luxury ingredient, even appreciated in cosmetics for its properties. I also discovered that the name of the hamlet San Rocco Castagnaretta might derive from the ancient and massive presence of chestnut groves on the plateau. So much history in such a simple fruit!
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More Than Just Chestnuts!
Certainly, the chestnut (marrone) is the star, and I couldn't resist tasting the Pan di Crue (chestnut bread) and Castagnaccio (a chestnut flour cake). But the Fair is an incredible showcase of the excellence of Piedmont and Italy. I wandered through stands offering white truffle, the famous Castelmagno cheese, ravioli, fried mushrooms, Piedmontese mixed fry (fritto misto), and litres of excellent vin brulé—perfect for warming up between stalls!
The historic centre was an open-air stage, featuring master artisans, cultural exhibitions, show cooking, and concerts. It's a widespread festival that, in three days, transforms Cuneo into a magical place. And the best part? All credit goes to this Alpine tradition that celebrates the flavour and culture of the region. Even the New York Times has included it among Europe's most delicious autumn experiences. No surprise there!
My Conclusion (and Useful Information!)
If you are looking for an authentic experience rich in history, flavours, and colours, the Fiera del Marrone is a date to mark in red on your calendar. I will certainly be back next year!
Casa a Pollenzo
Book your stay to explore the pulsating heart of the Langhe. This comfortable accommodation in Pollenzo is a stone's throw from the historic University of Gastronomic Sciences and halfway between Alba and Bra.
And now, for those of you who want to experience this wonder, here are all the useful contacts for getting information about the event:
- Official Website: The reference site for the programme and updates is usually http://www.marrone.net/ (always check the URL before an event).
- Tourist Information:
- Tourist Office Phone: +39 0171 690217
- Tourist Office Email: Iatcuneo@visitcuneese.it
- Exhibitor Information:
- Phone: +39 0171 444285 (contact the relevant offices, often Confcommercio Cuneo or organising bodies)
- Email: The reference email can often be found on the official website or on the Confcommercio Cuneo portal, for example, info@confcommerciocuneo.it for general inquiries (always check the official email for the Fair).
Until the next adventure, and happy autumn to all!