Friends and readers, prepare your forks and your hearts! There's a hidden corner of the Langhe, a charming village that every autumn comes alive with history, intoxicating aromas, and a soul-warming culinary tradition: I'm talking about Dogliani, in the province of Cuneo, and its unique Fiera della Cisrà (Cisrà Fair), which takes place every year on November 2nd.
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If you're seeking the most authentic essence of rural Piedmont, where the land still dictates the rhythms of celebration and food, the Cisrà is a must-attend event. It's not just a village festival; it's a journey through time, an act of hospitality faithfully repeated for centuries.
What is Cisrà? The Soup That Tells a Story
Let's start with the heart of the celebration: the Cisrà. Curious about this curiously named specialty? It is an ancient, hearty, single-course meal from the peasant tradition, a steaming, savory soup made from chickpeas, tripe (or pork rind in some variations), and a triumph of autumn vegetables like leeks, potatoes, cabbage, and carrots.
Its preparation is a ritual that begins the night before: the Cisrà is cooked slowly in enormous cauldrons, releasing an aroma that envelops Dogliani from the break of dawn.
A Gesture of Solidarity That Lasts Since the 1600s
The origin of this tradition is moving and dates back as far as the 17th century. Legend tells that during the All Saints' Fair (Fiera dei Santi), members of the Confraternita dei Battuti (Confraternity of the Flagellants) would offer a warm, fortifying bowl of this soup to weary pilgrims and faithful travelers who had walked long distances. It was their way of providing comfort and sustenance before the last major market of the year, just ahead of winter's arrival.
Today, the act of distributing the Cisrà under the historic Ala Mercatale (Market Wing) is repeated annually, staying true to that gesture of generosity and welcome. It's a unique and touching experience to see people queuing up to receive their bowl.
The Fair: More Than Just Soup
The Cisrà is the star, but the event is a comprehensive festival that transforms Dogliani into a bustling hub of activity:
- The Great All Saints’ Fair: Beyond the gastronomic focus, the day of November 2nd (or the first Saturday of November, the traditional day of the fair) is animated by a large commercial fair featuring hundreds of exhibitors. You'll find stalls of all kinds, but the focus is on the local products of excellence: cheeses, sweets, honey, fresh produce, and handicrafts.
- Dogliani DOCG Takes Centre Stage: You can't talk about Dogliani without mentioning its wine. The rich, savory Cisrà is traditionally paired with a glass of Dogliani DOCG, the most honest and satisfying expression of the local Dolcetto grape.
- Gastronomic Week and the "Itinerario dell'Enovago" (Wine Wanderer's Itinerary): The celebration doesn't end in a day! Throughout the following week, the Cisrà is the star feature on the menus of the best Dogliani restaurants. And don't miss the Itinerario dell'Enovago, a magical evening where the soup is sampled alongside Dogliani DOCG in the area's picturesque wine cellars.
- Culture and Outdoors: The program often includes guided tours of the Chiesa della Confraternita dei Battuti to delve deeper into the Cisrà's history, as well as trekking or E-bike routes along the "Sentieri del Dogliani" to work up (and regain!) a good appetite.
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Why You Must Go
Attending the Fiera della Cisrà means immersing yourself in a spectacular autumn setting. The Langhe hills, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are dressed in the warm colours of the foliage, and the crisp air is made welcoming by the scents of traditional cooking and fermenting must.
It is the perfect opportunity to:
- Savour a dish with a true soul and history.
- Experience a folk tradition that has endured since the 1600s.
- Discover Dogliani, a jewel nestled in the Langhe.
- Stock up on outstanding Piedmontese culinary delights.
A word of advice? Arrive early, get your bowl of Cisrà, raise a glass of Dogliani DOCG to the sky, and enjoy the contagious energy of a festival that celebrates food, history, and community.
Have you ever tasted Cisrà? Or are you planning to visit the Langhe this autumn? Share your thoughts in the comments below!