It's been years since I first started attending the Cheese festival in Bra, and every time, the atmosphere is truly one of a kind. But this year's event exceeded all expectations, thanks in large part to a very special encounter.
A Journey Through Italy's Flavors
Arriving in Bra for Cheese is like stepping into another world, where every street and piazza is a vibrant explosion of scents and colors. My visit to the stands was a true sensory journey, an experience that took me from the north to the south of Italy. I chatted with farmers and cheesemakers, listening to their stories and hearing about the passion and hard work they pour into every single cheese.
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I tasted an aged Pecorino Toscano, so intense and savory it transported me to the hills of the Maremma. Just a few feet away, a vendor from Lombardy told me anecdotes about making his Formai de Mut, a mountain cheese that holds the very flavor of the Orobie Alps. Every taste was a story, and every vendor was a keeper of ancient traditions.
I got lost among the stands, savoring an endless array of stories and flavors. I chatted with a cheesemaker from the Aosta Valley who offered me a piece of Fontina d'Alpeggio, explaining that its unique, floral taste comes from summer grazing at high altitudes. It was like tasting the Alps themselves. Then, at a stand from Puglia, I discovered the story of Stracciatella, a spun-curd cheese that was born out of the need to use the "scraps" from making mozzarella. A vendor with a strong, cheerful accent gave me a taste of his version, and it was so creamy and sweet I finished it in a flash. And I couldn't leave without tasting some Parmigiano Reggiano: an elderly producer told me how a 36-month aging process enhances its complexity, much like a fine wine.
This year, however, my interest was drawn to one region in particular: Calabria.
An Unexpected Meeting: Domenico and the 'Nduja
The real magic of this year’s event happened outside the stands. One of my two apartments was rented out for the festival, and the guest turned out to be Domenico Mondella, of Slow Food Calabria. I immediately knew I was in the presence of someone special: a man with a contagious energy, a deep knowledge of his homeland, and a genuine passion for high-quality food.
Over the days he stayed, we had the chance to talk, and I discovered his incredible story of dedication and commitment to promoting Calabrian products. His mission is to raise awareness and protect his region’s gastronomic heritage, which is often overlooked. The bond that formed with Domenico was wonderful: a friendship that began almost by chance but grew stronger with each passing day.
His way of thanking me for my hospitality was a touching gesture: he gave me some 'Nduja from Spilinga, a true culinary masterpiece.
Balcone a Pollenzo
Reserve your lodging to discover the vibrant core of the Langhe. This cozy spot in Pollenzo is just moments from the renowned University of Gastronomic Sciences, situated midway between Alba and Bra.
The Story of 'Nduja: A Spicy Treasure
As he handed me his gift, Domenico told me the story of this extraordinary cured sausage. 'Nduja was born in Spilinga, a small Calabrian village in the province of Vibo Valentia. It's a soft, spicy spread made with pork, fat, and, most importantly, lots of chili peppers, which give it its vibrant red color and unmistakable flavor.
Its origins are lost to time, and it was once considered food for the poor because it was made with the less-noble parts of the pig. Today, it's a delicacy that has won over the world, a symbol of the passion and warmth of Calabria.
Back at home with my piece of 'Nduja, I tasted it spread on a slice of warm bread. And I realized that I wasn't just eating a cured meat; I was savoring the history, tradition, and, most of all, the friendship of an extraordinary man.
The Universe of Calabrian Cheeses
As we talked about his region, Domenico opened up a world I didn't know well enough: that of Calabrian cheeses, which are every bit as good as their northern cousins. He explained that Calabria boasts a rich dairy production, tied mainly to the farming of native goats, sheep, and Podolica cattle (a Slow Food Presidium), which graze in a unique and pristine environment.
It was wonderful to discover that the cheeses of this region are an authentic expression of the land, with a strong connection to local traditions. Among the most famous is Caciocavallo di Ciminà, a Slow Food Presidium produced in the Locride area, in the province of Reggio Calabria. This region is part of the Aspromonte National Park, and the cheese has a sweet and delicate flavor that becomes spicier as it ages. I also learned a lot about Pecorino del Monte Poro, from the province of Vibo Valentia, a cheese with a compact texture made from raw milk.
And what about the Smoked Ricotta, which, unlike many fresh ricottas, is smoked with olive or broom wood, giving it an unmistakable flavor and an enveloping aroma?
Domenico and other important friends
I had the privilege of hosting a true culinary master for Cheese 2025: Chef Michele Milone, a member of the Slow Food Cooks' Alliance. (In the photo below, he's with regional president Michelangelo D'Ambrosio.) His presence brought a breath of authenticity and passion, allowing me to witness firsthand the philosophy that guides his work. It was incredible to hear him talk about his commitment to genuine ingredients, his respect for tradition, and his pursuit of flavors that tell the stories of a region. Having him here was an honor and an unforgettable experience, filling my rooms with creative energy and a deep dedication to the world of quality food.
My accommodations had the honor of welcoming another prominent figure from Cheese 2025: Gabriele Crudo. His visit was extra special because he was awarded a very important prize during the event, a testament to his exceptional work in the world of cheese. It was thrilling to share the festive atmosphere with him and celebrate this extraordinary achievement. His presence was a reminder of how passion, expertise, and hard work are recognized and rewarded, inspiring anyone who loves authentic flavors and the stories behind them.
The Faces and Stories of Calabria at Cheese
In Bra, Calabria wasn't represented by Domenico alone. I had the opportunity to meet some of the producers who proudly carry on their region's dairy traditions. I met with the Cifalu Carmelo Andrea Farm, whose cheeses tell the story of the heart of Aspromonte. I also spoke with the representatives of Caseificio Paolo Pignataro, who produce unique cheeses, and with the Azienda Agricola Varacalli Pietro, who carry on the art of cheesemaking with passion and dedication.
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The most moving moment was hearing about the "Cheese Resistance" award given to Antonio Crudo, an elderly shepherd from the Vibo Valentia plateau, and his son Gabriele, who, as I mentioned, was staying in one of my accommodations. Their Pecorino a latte crudo dell'Altopiano Vibonese, a Slow Food Presidium, received a hugely important recognition for their tenacity and commitment to keeping an ancient tradition alive. Listening to the story of Antonio and Gabriele, who continue to work with raw milk in a challenging region, was further confirmation of the dedication and courage hidden behind every single high-quality cheese.
This year's Cheese festival won't just be a memory of cheeses and flavors; it will be an unforgettable experience of humanity, passion, and new friendships.