The Rocche of the Roero are a spectacular scar across the land, a rugged and evocative landscape shaped by millennia of erosion. And right in the heart of this geological marvel lies Pocapaglia, a village that offers more than just breathtaking views; it is a true treasury of stories, popular beliefs, and anecdotes that bring life to its trails and vineyards.
Get ready to walk between primal nature and ancient legends!
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The Rocche (Cliffs): Wild Nature and Demonic Birth
The Rocche are not human constructions, but natural creations with roots firmly planted in the prehistoric sea. In Pocapaglia, the amphitheater of the Ghia and Meinina cliffs offers an unforgettable spectacle. However, according to local beliefs, their origin is far "hotter."
It is said that in order to model the territory and raise the fortress, none other than Beelzebub himself intervened! Emerging from the waters of the Tanaro river, the devil, in exchange for souls, dug the vast chasms of Pocapaglia with a colossal shovel in a single night. The displaced earth and the dizzying walls stand as a testament to that ancient and infernal undertaking.
The Dark Charm of the Masche
The Roero is the land of the "masche" (the Piedmontese witches), and Pocapaglia guards one of the most famous and tragic stories: that of Masca Micilina.
The Legend of Micilina
Micilina is the most iconic figure associated with the town. Accused of witchcraft and sentenced to burn at the stake by the Court of the Inquisition, it is said that she never saw her beloved Rocche again. However, the legend claims that her spirit (and that of other unjustly condemned women) continues to wander on the darkest, stormiest nights, haunting the Rocche—the very stage of their suffering.
Lest we forget, the evocative Masca Micilina Trail was created, a themed route that offers full immersion into the mystery.
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The Anecdote: The Hermit of the Caves
Pocapaglia was also home to extraordinary characters. Between the two World Wars, the Rocche hosted a man who chose the most extreme solitude: Settimio Grasso, the hermit of Pocapaglia.
- Who was he? Born in Bra, Settimio was a tall, strong man with a long beard. After voluntarily returning from the war in Ethiopia, he decided to abandon civilian life.
- His refuge: He dug a cave into the middle of the Rocche entirely by himself, turning it into his hermitage.
- The Legend: Despite his withdrawal, he was a well-known and intriguing figure, almost a wise and wild ascetic. His story, a blend of fact and legend, was even immortalized by the writer Giovanni Arpino.
A Tip for the Reader
Visiting Pocapaglia means not only admiring the spectacular scenery but also honoring its stories. Look for the "Rocche and Masche" Museum in the Town Hall to delve deeper into the traditions, ancient trades, and, of course, the history of Masca Micilina.
When you walk through the woods of the Rocche, remember: you might not be alone. Listen to the wind, because in Pocapaglia, even the earth has a story to tell.